Mazagao there but not seen. Even if you search for hours on the map of Morocco. Once known as the most impregnable stronghold Portuguese in Africa, now wandering in the memory like a restless ghost. In its place is El Jadida, the "renewed", but the name in 1821 by Sheriff affibiatole Sidi Mohammed ben Ettayeb is far from saying what he really was. If the governor of the region of Doukkala it did in fact rebuild the imposing walls of the ruins and restored, allowing a colony of Jewish and Berber tribe of Oulad Hassine Oulad Douib and settle in them, the city today is not to escape his inevitable fate: the splitting. The laceration.
On the one hand, of course, the heroic creaks Portuguese fortress, barricaded behind his disdain memories, their eyes to the ocean and the heart betrayed in Lisbon. Echoes of a dirty white, similar to a registration page hastily removed, and yet swells with pride for the last fidalgo noble title conferred in 2004 to the World Heritage.
other agglomeration of a typical modern Moroccan city of the province, grew in the shadow of Casablanca - just 96 kilometers further north - but in need, inexhaustible stock of the Kingdom, bazaars overflowing with almonds, beans, corn or wool quality. All products made easily available to the hinterland of the region, a fascinating theory of remote farming villages and nature reserves that, at any moment, appear to have succumbed all'arsura of the earth. Basically not much has changed since the glorious days when the Moors and Christians faced each other on the coast, the first seduced by the huge wealth that the nomadic tribes of the desert conveyed from the heart of Africa, the latter enhanced by the dream to erase the shame of last a Reconquista azzardatasi too far. To remove the "stone of scandal" that still impede unity of the Empire of Sheriffs: the birth of modern Morocco.
Arriving from Casablanca, today, just in a hurry to get much more down at the cobalt waters of Essaouira, or any of slip on the road in less than two hours door hypnotism Marrakesh.
Modern El Jadida, however, swarms of women shades of henna, piercing aromas of ras-el-hanout (a mix of fifteen North African spices do not forget the most ideal for the cous-cous) and the inevitable cries of vendors of carpets. In contrast, the citadel of Mazagao is a labyrinth of shady streets, stolen glances behind the shutters faded colors, debris consumed by the weight of centuries.
Despite the attempt to re-scale lifestyle enlightened sheriff, the multicultural laboratory that would celebrate the glories of the Moroccan king soon gave way to the fetishism of the French protectorate: even after a hundred years of arduous reconstruction, during which was even granted to some European families to live in the old Portuguese houses, the work of Joseph Goulen came to the city jail in the syncopation of a postcard collection: his "La place de Mazagan sous la domination Portugaise, 1502-1769 , "published in 1917, suddenly gave back to that value which until recently had been concealed in the first effort, made a open air museum and lifeless, to the detriment of a society where - for the first time - the ransom staff had given rise to the sheer force of his own talent. For Sidi Mohammed ben Ettayeb was not easy to start the project: its requirement of 1827 even called on Europeans to "dress in the manner of the Israelites, not to stir up the animosity of the natives, who retain a bloody reminder of the Portuguese rule."
While the crowns of the Old Continent busily at the table to carve up the world, the sky of El Jadida already gathered under him old Catholic churches, a synagogue and a mosque is unique in the world: the tower of the Rebate, which was once the Portuguese Governor José Vasques Alvares da Cunha had waited spasmodically aid from the Motherland, was in fact adapted to the minaret. Yet it is the only pentagonal in the Islamic world and the symbol of the town core, visible wherever you are. Yellow lace, with slits of green access, is a hymn to overflowing Moroccan brightness of colors, that have so enchanted the Impressionist painters and the pages of the writer Driss Chraïbi. Not by chance in Rua da Carreira, near the spot where once the players were trying to thread the rings of argolinhas galloping with their spears, a plate it indicates the house.
Ben had other interests the French colonists in search of exotic beaches for the rich landowners north of the Alps and Mazagan, promptly renamed with Parisian accent, offered them the best protected cove Morocco elegant cobblestone streets, the glare of a force that was slowly fading from the veins of the old Empire.
between utopia and universalist claims of haughty pride, but no one was ever allowed to say what had really happened after the fateful March 1769. Because whatever you want to decline, Mazagao continues to be pervaded by an inexplicable sense of expectation.
This is evident by the elders who sit in front of the old Portuguese cistern. They are there from morning to night, wide-eyed at passers, won by the sleepy rhythm of the citadel. Perhaps mindful of those days when the spectacular underground arcades, in their perspective and deceit behind the play of light filtered from the road, praised the cameras of Orson Wells, in his memorable work on Othello. Or perhaps incredulous at the fact that, on the day of the escape of the Portuguese in there they had not found any of the fabulous wealth of which it was rumored, but only destroyed benches, horses lame, reserves sent to evil. Going to the palace of the governor, in a strong fort, trying in vain rusted cannons an enemy to download their anger, while young lovers meet on their mouths silent. It 's the highest point of the ramparts, one from which you can gaze at dozens of abandoned fishing boats in the bay, or confined in the adjacent marina to refresh the typical red streaks.
But it's the majesty of the walls, large eleven meters high and fourteen, to charm the eye: they are the most famous example of military engineering in vogue during the Renaissance, the stroke of genius of the Italian Benedetto da Ravenna, who had devised in 1541 to enclose the seven hundred houses in the city in a four-pointed star. Resting half on embankments, such as to see a raft of rock midway between earth and the ocean, Mazagao was thus able to keep up to twenty times greater than the aggressors Portuguese contingent. In 1561 the Moors had tried everything to make her surrender, but eventually were forced to throw in the towel, convinced that nothing could be against the mischief of the infidels. Since then Mazagao became a legend, the adamant "bulwark of Christianity."
Under the fortifications, the Porta do Mar is still working: with its creaky iron bars, has never ceased to regulate the traffic of supplies that arrived at rise of the tide, the kids who jumped from one side of the gate, however, seem to enjoy only the devious ape escape the soldiers who were inexplicably betrayed in 1769 from Lisbon.
The gold of Brazil, suddenly, it was worth much more than a handful of fanatics. Because a whole generation of fallen nobility and disturbingly conveyed here, of Degradados no hope but to grow as the war of tossed fronteiros for the colonies of the empire, not even had the honor to take up arms. To receive an explanation, to be a reason for failing the formal appointment with death and glory.
were evacuated in a hurry, without knowing that the Court would soon destined to the dangers of the Amazon: here, among the malarial swamps and poisoned arrows, old and with children in tow, had to rebuild Nova Mazagao. Already torn that heart transplant, which for centuries had sailed between Africa and Europe.
Manueline The beautiful church of Nossa Senhora da Assumpsaõ was crossed out and since then its bells were covered by dust of starvation. The pastel-colored houses, yellow, red, ocher, have welcomed back the meager tenants who continue to look around with reverence and awe. Behind a door off its hinges in fact could leap out, without warning, an ancient eighteenth century drawing room, but only cats know the secret passages to get there. Looking up, the walls of the buildings turn out to be surprisingly beautiful tiles covered with tiles, and wood inlays are stubbornly space to affirm the rights of regaining the sheriff ben Abdallah. Rue Abraham Znaty betrays a sinful history of contamination and mestizos pairs, of which the annals of the city were heavily excised the memory.
Too much blood was shed. Too many lives in the name of Mazagao fell. "Of those who were strong and vigorous / - sang in a sonnet of 1802, the poet Antonio Inacio da Silva - the heroic and courageous spirits / whose fame was always known to be / here, only the memory of the nation rests." Even today the spectacular festival of horse El Jadida, scheduled each October, still seems to lack the two sides clash that saw subtract from the wiles of the building. Shots fired in
bombastic charges, acrobatics on horseback, the frenzy of chants Gnawa. The enemy will come back, sooner or later. But it will be enough of a gesture peace, to reveal to his eyes the wonder of El Jadida. The city that rose from the ashes. The city was shewn home for all those to whom he was always denied.
CULTURES IN COMPARISON
Three continents, one city. Since 2001, El Jadida has decided to engage closely in the rediscovery of their roots, giving rise to a series of cultural projects of significant value. In that year, the Ambassador of Morocco arrived in the remote Nova Mazagao fact, in the Amazon, realizing how the descendants of slaves assigned a refugee Mazagao solessero repeat, two hundred years from now, a celebration deeply rooted in the history of the original city, the celebration of Sao Tiago, scheduled every end of July, is nothing if not a representation of the battle between the Moors and Christians whose spirit lives on even in equestrian festival Moussem Moulay Abdellah Amghar (July / August) or the Salon du Cheval d'El Jadida (October). With the support of the Portuguese universities and Professor Laurent Vidal, author of the memorable biography "Mazagao" (Mondadori, 2006), was therefore initiated Project Mazagao ( ) that, in addition to the city reported a stunning docu-film Brazilian trade each year helps several ethnic groups. Among these, the most spectacular musical about the jamming in the summer melt in the streets of El Jadida South American rhythms, moving the Portuguese fado, and percussion sounds tarantolati Maghreb Berber.
The Moroccan city, often in conjunction with the nearby Azemmour, is a bustling multicultural center where the theater is enhanced English-Moroccan Festival in March by the two banks, in the spring humorous art gives life to the Festival of Rice, while in January Berber handicrafts and agricultural rites in the region are put on display in celebration of Amazigh.
THE FORGOTTEN SISTER
El Jadida looks like a coin. If the turns, it is inevitable scoprici Azemmour. Just 13 km, carefully hidden behind his ocher ramparts, this ancient fortress served as a strategic Mazagao bank between 1513 and 1541 (Magellan escaped so daring in its reconquest), so much so that even today the two cities can to discern from their watchtowers. Much richer than her sister, first conferred with mystic halo of Bacuates heretical by the tribe and later the mausoleum of Moulay Bouchaib miracle worker, had the misfortune not only be equipped with a port as smooth as that of El Jadida. Today the beaches are, however, become a cult among surfers around the world, divided between the enchanting beauty of its medina, the wonders of art jeweler bequeathed by the flourishing Jewish community and the city's famous festival, scheduled every July. Unlike the improvised performances in the streets of El Jadida, here we gather all the most prestigious groups of Moroccan and international scene, accompanying their exhibitions to thematic exhibitions on folklore of the region. In recent years, the low prices of houses have also revitalized the real estate market, launching the town as a retreat for lovers of retro atmosphere, but also as a refuge of inspiration for artists and bohemian artists.
IN THE ENCHANTED GARDEN
a distance of years, continues to single Mazagao. A copy itself in new forms. Last October, was inaugurated on the outskirts of town the huge complex of Mazagan Beach Resort ( ), the most modern and luxurious resort in Morocco. Behind one of the 7 km sandy beach and surrounded by a forest of 250 hectares of eucalyptus trees, this charming Moorish style offers over 500 rooms and suites to fully enjoy the wonders of the coast. In fact in itself represents a city, where you can find luxury and tranquility, as well as having a 18-hole golf club, offers a spa and hammam voted the most ancient techniques of Moroccan welfare, not to mention a taste for the game: its Casino has more than 60 tables and 410 gaming machines. Halfway between El Jadida and Azemmour, the new urban center is connected by highway to the airport of Casablanca, in order to avoid removing more than 45 minutes drive. With its carved doors, the effects of maze-supporting arches and fleeting reflections of bodies of water, seems to come out from the pages of "The Thousand and One Nights".
RESTAURANTS
ALI BABA '
at number 8 of the Main Route Casablanca / El Jadida, right at the entrance, this restaurant is an institution for 18 years in the city. Specializes in seafood, offers fresh seafood salads every day, typical terrine of lobster and marinated anchovies. The atmosphere is very cozy, with inserts of wood and stone. Prices around 25 €.
BELLEVUE
As already mentioned the name of the restaurant is the ideal place for a privileged glance of the city, its green park and especially on its beaches. It is in fact the fifth floor of a building on the Boulevard Mohammed VI, number 46, and competes with Ali Baba in seafood. Closer to the ethnic influences in the area, has in Oualidia oysters grilled squid with garlic and two of his undoubted strengths. Meal and dinner on the 20 €.
LE SEL DE MER
Housed inside the Mazagan Beach Resort, allows you to enjoy highly original fusion dishes of English cuisine, Portuguese, French and Moroccan. Be counted at all in real sea bream fillets with orange sauce, stew, but the crab with shredded carrots, mango and lime vinaigrette. Prices around 30 €.
HOTELS
PALAIS ANDALOUSE
Located near the old town and shopping area, between 1947 and 1980 was the residence of the Pasha, and, as such, has retained much of Soft retro charm and loved by his illustrious guest. Fountains in the courtyards, arcades with arabesques, sofa-lit lantern. Rates on 40 euro per person.
Maison d'Hôtes DE LA CITE 'Portugais
Inside the citadel, the old yellow building called "Dar Jadida" some rooms have been created in traditional Moorish style, in which the taste for decorative tiled inserts and flowers help to create a timeless atmosphere. The prices are quite competitive and vary from 25 to 35 € per person.
Samanah COUNTRY CLUB
for exploring the hinterland of the region, near the High Atlas has just opened its first property in Morocco Group Alain Crenna, spread over an area of over 300 hectares, 100 of which are reserved for golf course signed by none other than Nicklaus Design. The 593 villas, each boasting a spectacular view of the mountains and are built with the typical local red stone, rammed earth blocks (bejmates), as well as embellished with handmade rugs and carved wooden furniture. From here, Marrakesh is just 14 km.
