Suddenly a shrill voice and begging. Around, only impenetrable darkness. Calls for a Mr. Kapitan, rebounding from a stalagmite in the cave to another, until it reaches the ears with a hissing sound as soothing, as it is disturbing. If it were not for the currents of hot wind that seeps through the crevices of the rock suspect that this is really a breath of spirit sailor - imprisoned in the most remote hideout Goras - might sound more than realistic. Instead it is only the falsetto of Professor Furir that groping among piles of moldy shells and stones by the sparkle of diamonds, is trying to appease the mysterious tenant of a seemingly bottomless chasm.
"Caution! Caution! - Mumbles in a sweat - Here only those who dare to want to know the truth of Papua arcane and outdated! How many are in search of easy loot, or dusty relics that belonged to some poor devil was buried, only run the risk of being drowned by the arrival of the wave avenger. " Swallow dismay.
hard on this that the western coast of the island, about five hours by boat from the former Dutch colonial outpost of Fak Fak, you can find rich treasures, except perhaps bombs unexploded hand, machine guns rusted or broken bones of Japanese soldiers, victims of Allied bombing in 1944. Since the war the entire promontory washed by the Arafura Sea was abandoned him, so that it gives Furir no peace in the '60s, hunting shark, he ran into the rocks overhanging the water, where he was impressed with the design of the hands of the first inhabitants of the island. But no one still knew nothing about it.
are countless. Blank. Rosse. Ochre. Sometimes overlapping each other frantically. Seem to reach out beyond the horizon, as if they were asking him to free from the grip of the earth. Highlighted by the technique of spray pigments in use among the Australian Aborigines, these footprints could be traced back to 40 thousand years ago, someone says with even 80 thousand, but as long as Jakarta will continue to ignore its province more remote, while international travelers to consider a black hole Papua atlas, capricious ghosts will not stop to take in hand the locals.
Yet the stakes are high: by observing the convex shape of the rocky outcrops Levantis from the water like giant Bolster covered with algae, it is difficult to argue that the walls are painted the last remnants of caves spezzatesi in half, then collapse apocalyptically seabed of the Pacific.
"The sinking of the continent of the probe is not only a legend - he warns Furir - and the kaleidoscope of islands that make up the Indonesian archipelago should be in itself a convincing argument. Some, however, it is convenient to support other theories, believe that the Australian tribes always dress in their territories, Papua cutting off any explanation, when in fact we are the ring junction to understand the major trends in human migration and evolution the species. "
In the words of Papua invariably show a strong resentment towards all that is foreign to their land, since the bottom of the sea has always brought only misery and i guns of the Portuguese in the '500, which has taken the name of the island (Papua is derived from the Portuguese Papua adjective to describe people from the dark curly hair), the crosses of fanatical German missionary, the oppressive yoke of the Dutch, which in 1962 is simply replaced that of Javanesi, ironically came to liberate the "noble savage" by colonial exploitation.
Today the proceeds of the gold mine of Freeport, the largest in the world, but go only to swell the pockets of Jakarta and Washington, gas and oil are the prerogative of His Majesty's subjects England, while the multinational timber eat every day square miles of lush rainforest.
Each resource is continually plundered under the gaze of local indignant, unable to put up another tank for the government, except bows and arrows, or sporadic acts of rebellion led by the Movement for the Liberation of Papua.
When Furir lays a bouquet of carnations at the foot of two basic columns, probably Mr. Kapitan is there to peek. It matters little to know who exactly it is. If a sailor from the past centuries, rintanatosi Mamasa in the cave of the feeding patterns of the local tribes, or rather a refugee from World War II. The important thing is that you appreciate the homage tributatogli softly with a blessing and intercede for the stranger, because when they abandoned the coast, Papua size opens the door to a world stood still in the stone age. Hard and wild. Where the slightest carelessness can cost the deadly bite of a black widow or the poisoned arrow of a tribe known.
Isolated for centuries by the great historical upheavals, inaccessible to most people, its ecosystem has managed to preserve Unique wonders in the world: flying gliders, dingisi very shy, cassowaries so lazy that he had forgotten how to use their wings, or magnificent creatures from the rainbow-colored feathers, which - not fear of man - came to be called even Birds of Paradise.
Wherever the gaze position, you actually feel like you are in one of the last eden land: the beaches are caressed by the island of Biak pristine sands, while in the waters of Raja Ampat's fired several shots come here tell of seeing creatures impossible. Are also silent and enigmatic megaliths zoomorphic who watch over the waters Lake Sentani in Doyo Lama, whose forms sfingiche, as well as shamanistic engravings which are crossed, as they lead them to the remains of an alien civilization.
The real alien, however, is still the white man, especially if you see him come from the sky in the middle of the jungle, perhaps because of a failure of one engine of the small Cessna missionaries who venture into the heart of darkness of the island.
In small villages like Yaniruma Mbasman or you can still count on a network of contacts rather than solid, so that the presentation of "Suran jalan" to the local police station almost gives the impression of a manly pat on the shoulder is that the government issues a permit to explore the border areas, those in which the geopolitical analysis give way to the extraordinary stories where science and get back to myth.
"In there you can only count on yourself - are used to warn employees spotted from the armpits - because waiting for you days of hard walking, with legs up to knee deep in swamps, a 'moisture that can reduce you to a puddle of water and malarial mosquitoes that never forgive. "
Many tremble and prefer to retrace your steps, perhaps at Wamena, where the beautiful valley of the Baliem is staged every August, the folk festival of Dani tribe, use to hurl spears and arrows into the air, but only for fun. Prepared to offer evidence of ability to sew or when putting bags of cowries cowrie shells, thus demonstrating that it is not only skilled producers of sweet potatoes, but people who know of straw huts finest in arts, such as that of smoking the mummies of their ancestors and keep them untouched warriors for hundreds of years.
addition Yaniruma rather not mess around. Each step is a benevolent grant of the Korowai tribesmen just unexpected motion, one word too many or perhaps misunderstood a smile to make you feel naked as a cassowary on the grill. The rumors about cannibalism are not just rumors.
not just in the treetops is a Khaima, a traditional hut that local tribes build up to twenty meters from the soil to escape predators (animals or humans), the leaves of the sago palms begin to rustle. Retrieve warbling cover payment of cockatoos scared. Ten, twenty, fifty savages with pierced noses and bones of birds of an acorn shell to cover their genitals are already there. All around, panting and afraid. But too damn curious.
Someone tries to reach out to the strange white creature that many consider a laleo, an ice demon. But the actress now. Better a less compromising approach: sniff the armpits, neck and chest assures them a lot more. Only If you are not imbued with some deodorant. The risk otherwise is that it could be mistaken for khakhua, sorcerers, from which we are freed only ate his liver, stomach and heart.
Having already approached both should still maintain a Korowai from unpleasant surprises. Archers are infallible, and if they really had the fear of the new joint, we would not think twice to seek an arrow from their homes. Since I have begun to recognize the sound of chainsaws in the distance, but their curiosity about the world beyond the forest has grown dramatically.
Until the late '70s no one knew of their existence and they themselves were convinced that beyond the circle of plants there is only the realm of spirits wandering. Because of a Dutch missionary, a Van EWK, today things are a little 'change. So much so that their survival may depend on tourism alone, and paradoxically, ready to preserve the charm of the "noble savage", provided that you agree to bow your head and put on display.
anyone have embraced the cross and is striving to speak Bahasa Indonesia. Others are left even get to wear shabby clothes. The more we "civilized", the better for Jakarta, which has a hunger for timber dollars. So it happens to be invited to smoke their pipes oblong or take part in the processing of sago, Korowai it from the main resource, which can offer a little break 'the ice with strangers. Yet, it could be just the evolution of a technique of hunting smarter and thinner.
When you receive an invitation to dinner from an alleged former cannibal, whose beaming smile to his announced a special dish for the day, some terrible doubt inevitably creeps. Malacoscienza. "Out of the heads of the larvae of beetles and mice. Today we celebrate. "
Yeah, who knows until when. And above all, who knows how.
operas Kotek
Some call Kotek, who horimono, who still Lonka Lonka. If you were to switch all 250 dialects of West Papua, the list would be enormous. Certainly the penis sheaths is the most important symbol of the tribal cultures of the island, not only for its function symbol of status within the community, but also as an assertion of identity against the ideological battles conducted by Jakarta. Between 1970 and 1971 the Indonesian government launched the operas Kotek fact, a campaign of "modernization of customs" that would compel the Papuan people to wear Western clothes rather than wander through valleys and forests completely nude. There was no way to convince them, so that almost a civil war broke out, then add an about-face from the government. Similarly, Christian missionaries failed, but instilling a sense of shame among the tribes involved, since even today many of them run to take rags and clothes to cover themselves, not just feel upon himself the eyes of foreigners.
However, the Kotek not given up. In addition to demonstrating the virility of man, being always connected to the pelvis and chest in an upright position, this pumpkin bag by quarry is often used to carry with tobacco or herbs without bags, as well as essential protection in melee combat with the other tribes. It can be wavy, bent, bulging or being artistically painted. Along with the crowns of feathers, cassowary and pig bones stuck in the nose, Kotek is part of the classic kit Dani populations, while other tribes, like the Korowai, prefer to protect their genitals with a painful massage through which the penis is inverted in the body, leaving out only the glans (but protected by a shell of the acorn).
Wasure NATIONAL PARK
Although relegated to the margins of society, tightly in his fist to the communities in Papua javanesi trasferitesi through the project "trasmigrasi", locals have managed to carve out fatigue-business spaces. If the government of Jakarta regularly confiscate large slices of land Papuans, and then assign them to the residents of crowded southern Indonesian islands (favorable conditions), Marinda tribes and Kanun district of Merauke have finally learned the trick. Instead of continuing to live apart from each other, were organized in 1997 to merge their land in the National Park Wasure under the auspices of the WWF. In addition to protecting its ecosystem by poachers and loggers, here are free to live according to their customs and, above all, to introduce them without injury to visitors.
for about Expanded 413mila hectares, including flooded forests of eucalyptus and rugged savannah, the park offers a wide variety of floral species and fauna: one of the wonders of nature, stand huge termite nests high up to five or six feet, used as ovens for cooking meat kangaroo. Within the reserve have been set up among other plants for processing some of the leaves of eucalyptus, from which you get a very concentrated oil: the Marinda it as a sort of panacea against all evils. They use it to ward off insects, to massage the body in pain, to treat heartburn by drinking small sips, or even to fight malaria. The money from the sale of its precious bottles are then reinvested in the preservation of the park.
FESTIVAL FOR ALL TASTES
The forerunner was the festival in Wamena, in the valley of Baliem. In each calendar year, in mid-August, this event was able to catalyze only from the little tourist developments in Papua since the early 90s. During the three days of celebration, the Dani tribe showcase all of their folk repertoire: spectacular dancing, singing wild, mock battles, racing pigs and tests of skill with bows and spears. Riding the wave of success, the administration has decided to advertise with Papuan decision other similar events: in June, for instance, was inaugurated the first festival of Lake Sentani, during which they are staged on the spectacular waters battles aboard ships in the form of a crocodile. A few miles away, the town of Waen turns at the end of August in the meeting point of all Papuan tribes, called to discuss not only danced but also the art of mime represent their myths. Prestige as, if not perhaps greater than that of Wamena, and finally the culture of the Asmat festival, held between October and November in the town of Merauke and Agats. The occasion is to prevent to admire the very famous sculptures of southern populations, which are considered among the best in the Pacific. In addition to shields and wooden idols, made of an infinite series of faces to ward off evil spirits or capture your luck are above the typical "mbis" memorial poles that embody the Asmat cosmology and have apotropaic value.
RESTAURANTS
Rumah Makan MICKEY
A stone's throw from Sentani, on the main road of Jalan Kemira, this small Chinese-Indonesian restaurant is a meeting place preferred by the international clientele, because of its menus translated into English. Missed the nasi goreng, fried rice that is seasoned with a choice of steamed vegetables, spicy chicken or shrimp blocks. Individual courses from a euro and a half.
Ruman Makan
MAS Budi
Although traditional Warung abound in Wamena Indonesia, set up to good eateries down the street, this small restaurant on the northern outskirts of the city - in Jalan Pattimura - can offer fresh fish, even in the valley where obligation of the grilled pork. Excellent prawns with spicy coconut sauce. Prices range from € 2 to 5 in range.
SANDRA CAFE '
Merauke town is undoubtedly the most neat and clean throughout Papua, but this place along Jalan Raya Mandala is always quick to remind that the jungle is just a few kilometers from the road. Nestled in a lush garden, offers striking tables on several levels, illuminated by candles and adorned with plates of fried chicken and caramelized. Ridiculously low prices, starting at less than one euro.
HOTEL
Semeru
A Sentani hotels are springing up like mushrooms, which are increasingly high, but underneath it on paper. Semeru is still one of the most popular, not only for the extreme proximity to the airport, but also for its simple, clean rooms. Even those with the fan, are equipped with toilet and shower classic, in spite of Turkish and send (a bathtub which collects a bucket with water left in storage for washing). Prices from € 12.
Baliem Valley Resort
Being the most popular tourist spots throughout Papua Wamena also boasts the only resort (www.baliem-valley-resort.de) that can be called such. Located 10 km north of the city, surrounded by unspoilt countryside and offers rooms inspired by the style of the Dani huts. Showers with stone walls and wooden floors. Cost much, $ 125 per night, but it is the only luxury that we can give the whole trip.
NAKORO
quiet oasis from the traffic of Merauke. Tucked away down a side street parallel to the main street, this charming family hotel has cozy, clean, enriched by the fragrant garden beneath figs. Believe it or not, breakfast is served in bed. Prices from € 18.
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